Musselburgh Lagoons
Musselburgh Lagoons, at the mouth of the River Esk, were formed in 1964 by the South of Scotland Electricity Board. A large concrete sea wall encompassing a number of large lagoons was constructed and over time 300 acres have been reclaimed from the sea using landfill of
 pulverised fuel ash from Cockenzie Power Station. The area is now of significant nature conservation interest adjacent to the Links and has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the large numbers of waders, terns and gulls that use it as a high tide roost. Much of the site is included in the Firth of Forth Special Protection Area (SPA). The area is a UK registered Ramsar site and, as such the British Government has an international treaty obligation to ensure its protection.
Over the years the area of the lagoons available as a high tide roost site has varied considerably, and is now restricted to the lagoon nearest to the river mouth. This area is still an active lagoon, and depending on its suitability contains variable numbers of roosting birds. This site is part of the SPA and SSSI and will be developed into a vitally important, safe, secure and stable environment for roosting birds when handed over from Scottish Power. The many thousands of birds using the intertidal areas of the Forth to feed, rely on
 disturbance-free sites to roost. With the industrialisation and coastal developments from Cramond and Leith to Port Seton, such sites are in danger of disappearing completely (and with that will go the birds). Musselburgh lagoons offers a unique opportunity to preserve and offer viewing facilities at such a site.
The wader species involved include Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Knot, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit, Curlew and Turnstone. Their total number can reach a thousand, or at times several thousand and they offer a spectacular sight. They use the site at various times of the year depending whether they are on migration from northern breeding grounds to African wintering areas (in spring and autumn), or whether they are spending the winter on the Forth rather than continuing further south.
 While some people say that the site is important for breeding waders, especially Oystercatchers, this is not actually the case. Ringed Plovers used to nest in some numbers at the lagoons, but as with the rest of the East Lothian coast, such species are now on the verge of extinction as a local breeding bird due to the increase in recreational use of their coastal breeding sites. A pair of Oystercatchers did indeed nest in 2004, but this was the first record for the site.
The third lagoon now forms a superb series of scrapes set in a nature reserve which was set up by the East Lothian District Council. Together the scrapes (shallow, clay lined, fresh-water pools), the high tide roost and views of the river mouth and sea from the sea wall give unique views, unmatched throughout Lothian, of the species using them.
In the past few years the planting of trees has also been to the benefit of some bird species, with Willow, Sedge and Grasshopper Warblers, Blackcaps and other scrub and woodland species breeding for the first time. Migrants also use these trees for cover with Golden Oriole, Redstart and Bluethroat all being recorded. The scrubby areas hold breeding Reed Buntings.
A breeding bird survey carried out by three enthusiasts in 1999 and 2000 found 38 bird species breeding at the lagoons. This is an increase on the 18 species thought to breed (or to have bred) prior to that, and of course the zero that bred prior to 1964.
Musselburgh lagoons are notable for their important populations of passage and wintering waders and wildfowl and immense numbers of roosting gulls. The lagoons also support a small but significant element of breeding birds - including at least four species which, due
 to increasing concerns over their long-term population trends, have been given "Red List" status by the British Trust for Ornithology. These four breeding species are - Grey Partridge, Skylark, Linnet and Reed Bunting. The commoner breeding species include several pairs of Grey Partridge, with both Meadow Pipit and Skylark common. These species favour the long grassed areas surrounding the lagoons, as do Linnet and occasionally Twite in the winter months. Depending on the abundance of voles, on which they feed, up to half a dozen Short-eared Owls winter on the lagoons. Being less nocturnal than the other owls, it is often possible to see them hunting over the grasslands in winter.
The scrapes also give excellent opportunities to see our scarcer wading birds with Wood Sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit and Spotted Redshank regular in spring along with both Temminck's Stint and Little Ringed Plover. In the autumn Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint and Ruff are seen in variable numbers with Garganey in both spring and autumn. Rarities on the scrapes have included Red-necked Phalarope, Pectoral Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Western Sandpiper, Avocet, Buff-breasted Sandpiper, Royal Tern and Spoonbill. Key to the maintenance of this artificial habitat and the viewing facilities is careful water level, water quality and vegetation control and this is the remit of East Lothian Council.
The boating pond next to the scrapes provides freshwater bathing for gulls, with a wintering adult Mediterranean Gull regularly being seen here. Ducks, especially Wigeon and Tufted Duck also use the pond, with Scaup, Red-crested Pochard and Red-throated Diver recorded as rarities.
A walk around the seawall gives excellent views of various sea duck and grebes such as Long-tailed Ducks, Velvet Scoters and Slavonian Grebes. Rarities seen offshore include Surf Scoters, King Eider, Forster's Tern and Brunnich's Guillemot.
With a wide variety of habitats beneficial to birds this has also had an effect on the Musselburgh List which now stands at an impressive 226 species, nearly two thirds of the Lothian List. This has not gone unnoticed by the birding public and Musselburgh Lagoons now stand out as one of the best sites in Britain. Indeed British Birds magazine, with a monthly readership of many thousands, has described Musselburgh as 'a site of awesome reputation'.
For those learning to identify waders, gulls, terns, ducks and seabirds, there are few places to rival Musselburgh. Add to this the backdrop of Edinburgh’s skyline, vistas across the Firth or Forth and the Links and you have a bird watching Mecca for beginners and the more experienced alike.
The Wildflower Meadows
East Lothian once had many wildflower meadows, but most - apart from one at Traprain Law, east of Haddington - have disappeared over the years. However, the meadows around the Lagoons were planted with wildflowers by local school children and wildflower seed was sown to create a wildflower meadow. Wild flowers include Foxglove, St John's Wort,
 Cowslip, Red Campion and Ox Eye Daisy. Paths have been cut through the area to encourage people to walk through the meadow.
The meadows surrounding the Lagoons make an important contribution towards biodiversity in the East Lothian area. For example, butterflies are being attracted to the meadows in increasing numbers, including the migrant Clouded Yellow which is not often seen in East Lothian. An attractive and useful landscape has been created, providing a habitat for Grey Partridge, Skylark and Brown Hare.
Impact of the proposed development
The Lagoons area is now an attractive mosaic of ash flat, wetland, grassland, woods and scrub. However, much of the Ash Lagoons will be transformed if the racecourse development, golf course extension and sports facilities go ahead. From a wildlife viewpoint it is essential that some areas of the lagoons are free from disturbance. The site has international designation (and legal protection) due to its importance as a roost site, a pre-requisite for which is minimal disturbance especially at high tide. This can be achieved by zoning the site and restricting access round the key sites, with the provision of viewing facilities being a key factor in making this work (as in the scrapes). The RSPB and Scottish Ornithologists' Club (SOC) see problems in maintaining the balance between recreational space and quiet wildlife areas if large areas are taken over by developments, such as the expansion of the race track to the close proximity of the roost, the provision of sports facilities and large buildings close to the wildlife sites and the general squeezing of open-access recreational space which is bound to impact on the aim of providing minimal-disturbance zones. The SOC has submitted one possible layout, which it is hoped will help maintain the balance. The proposed large-scale flood lighting on the protected areas is another issue – but the effects are largely unknown.
 There is no doubt that Musselburgh Lagoons is a prime site for wildlife, especially birds, as well as birdwatchers and walkers keen on observing and studying them. Having such a superb site so close to a population centre is a key resource, and every effort should be made not to loose it through poor planning. As a recreational, tourism and educational site Musselburgh has great potential. Let’s hope we can preserve and develop it for future generations.
[Thanks to Ian Andrews, a Musselburgh resident and keen birdwatcher, for his contribution to the content of this page.]
Sources
- From Birding Scotland "Birding the Lothians" by Calum Scott
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